A view over the city of Abidjan at twilight from the Plateau neighborhood.

Moving to Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire (Ivory Coast): A Guide

When I learned I would be moving to Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire (Ivory Coast) for a job, I scoured the internet for info on the city. In particular, I was curious for perspectives on what it was like to move to and live in Abidjan as a young woman and a non-Francophone foreigner. The relative lack of recent and comprehensive materials that I was able to find was the inspiration behind this guide. If you’re looking for additional perspectives, one of the most helpful resources I found was this guide from Bren on the Road. He introduced Abidjan as “not a city for Africa beginners”, so when I arrived in the Abidjan airport at 11 pm on a Saturday night and stepped foot on the continent for the first time, I knew I was in for an adventure. 

With no established social network in the city and limited French knowledge, I plunged headfirst into the bustling economic capital of Côte d’Ivoire. I’ll be the first to say that Abidjan isn’t an easy city. I knew I’d have to adapt the way that I typically explore cities, and I’ve learned plenty in the process! Whether you’re visiting or moving to Côte d’Ivoire, here’s what I wish I had known.

Côte d’Ivoire versus Ivory Coast

Let’s get this out of the way first: Is it Côte d’Ivoire or Ivory Coast? Côte d’Ivoire is a francophone country, and Ivory Coast is the literal English translation of the French name. The country has declared that its official name is République de Côte d’Ivoire, and that all foreign nations should call it as such. Because of this, even when I’m speaking in English, I use Côte d’Ivoire to refer to the name of this country.

However, just because a country has requested that the rest of the world use a certain name for it doesn’t necessarily mean that the rest of the world will follow suit. In my travels since moving to the Ivory Coast, nearly every time that I’ve introduced the country to someone who is a non-French speaker, I’ve had to start in French, switch to English, and watch as they eventually translate the name into their native language before we have full recognition of which country I’m talking about.

This guide is meant to serve folks who are moving to the Ivory Coast, and as many such people aren’t French speakers, I want to make sure they can still find it! As such, I’ll be using Côte d’Ivoire and Ivory Coast interchangeably throughout this guide. Just note that once you finally make it to Côte d’Ivoire, you’ll absolutely want to use the French version no matter your native language!

Prepping for your Move to the Ivory Coast:

Ivoirian Visa

Before you get to Côte d’Ivoire, there’s a good chance you’ll need a visa. You’ll need to apply online before you depart using the official snedai page. Submitting the form will get you pre-approval within 48 hours, and you will complete the visa process at the airport upon your arrival. You absolutely must get pre-approval before arriving – there are no official visas on arrival. Also note that you must have at least 6 months of validity left on your passport before you arrive. The visa is valid for 3 months and costs 73 euros.

If you’re moving to the Ivory Coast, you may need to extend your visa while you sort out more permanent arrangements. You can extend a visa at the Ministry of the Interior in Abidjan. You don’t need an appointment, just walk in 2 days before your visa expires with your passport and a passport-sized photo, fill out their short forms, and pay ~$65. Do note that they will not initiate the process unless you have 2 days or less left on the visa. You can pick up your passport with a new visa 2 days later.

Yellow Fever Vaccine

In order to enter Côte d’Ivoire, you need to have an international yellow fever vaccination certificate, or “yellow card”. In the US, the CDC posts a searchable database of yellow fever vaccination sites – this is not a vaccine which you can grab at any old pharmacy. Do note that as of 2023, there were shortages of the vaccine in the US, and many sites were out of stock.

In addition, insurance does not usually cover this vaccine, so you’ll be paying out of pocket. I’d highly recommend calling the vaccine centers in your area to check their stock and understand their cost structure. Some vaccination sites won’t vaccinate without conducting a travel examination, so be sure to ask about this cost as well. Many of the sites I called had mandatory examination and facility fees on top of the actual vaccination fees. Sites quoted me anywhere from $400 to $1200 for the vaccine, and eventually I had the most luck at a public health clinic in my rural home town – go figure.

Malaria Prevention & Other Prophylactics

Côte d’Ivoire is a malaria risk zone. No matter how liberal you are with the DEET, you’re bound to encounter at least a few tenacious mosquitos. Most short-term travelers to Côte d’Ivoire from the US bring antimalarial pills. However, if you’re moving to the Ivory Coast, the situation is a bit more complex. Among long-term travelers, the choice of whether to continue taking the medications often comes down to cost, side effects, and personal risk tolerance. All types of antimalarials are prescription-only, so you’ll need to get a prescription if you want antimalarials. If you’re getting your yellow fever vaccine at a site which requires a travel exam, try to get the prescription in the same appointment. 

It’s also a good idea to stock up on both travel-specific and comfort-providing medications before you go. Many doctors will prescribe traveler’s diarrhea medication which you can bring with you in the case of severe issues. In addition, it’s also helpful to have some over-the-counter loperamide (Imodium is a popular brand name) for less severe gastrointestinal issues. In terms of comfort, I always like to make sure I travel with ample electrolytes, ibuprofen, tums, antihistamine cream, and basic first aid supplies. This helps to minimize the need for a midnight pharmacy run in an unfamiliar country.

Packing tips for Moving to the Ivory Coast

It’s never easy to pack up your life into a checked bag or two. However, when you’re packing for Côte d’Ivoire here are a few destination-specific things to keep in mind, particularly if you’re moving to Abidjan rather than just visiting.

Clothing

The weather is hot and humid all day and all year (feels-like is almost always above 85). At the same time, some degree of modesty is expected, at least for women. Long, flowy pants are my best friends for surviving the hot weather here. I brought 3 pairs of shorts with me, and have only ever worn them around the house. I’ve increased my comfort level with sleeveless tops as I’ve settled in, but still always receive less unwanted attention in a simple t-shirt which covers my shoulders.

Toiletries

You can find all of the basic toiletries a person needs in Abidjan. However, if you have specific brands or products you love, you might want to bring them along. Online ordering is very limited, and importing products from abroad is expensive. As such, you’ll likely rely on whatever you can find at your local pharmacy. After moving to Abidjan you can tap into a network of toiletry importers, but these are often expensive with unpredictable stock. I have curly hair and know that tropical weather is a frizz bomb waiting to happen. As such, I brought a massive 34 ounce bottle of my favorite hair gel, and I’m so glad I did. Similarly, if you have any prescriptions you rely on, be absolutely sure to bring enough for your time here. Do not expect to be able to easily (or affordably) receive them by mail from folks back home.

Arriving & Getting Moving in Abidjan:

Abidjan Airport

When you arrive in Abidjan you’ll need to procure your visa. Look for the area just before you reach customs where you can process your evisa. In the customs line, be ready to produce your yellow fever card as well. Once through customs, grab your luggage from the baggage claim. From personal experience, don’t panic if your luggage takes longer than you thought humanly possible to arrive.

Once you’re out of the luggage area, it’s a good idea to stop at an ATM to grab some cash. From there, you’ll be able to use airport wifi to order a Yango, Côte d’Ivoire’s version of Uber. More on money and transportation below.

Cash in Abidjan

Côte d’Ivoire uses the West African CFA Franc, which is tied to the Euro. It generally exchanges at around 600 CFA = $1 USD. Most small businesses in Côte d’Ivoire run on cash, though many grocery stores and bigger establishments also accept mastercard and visa. The bills run from 500 cfa (~$0.90) up to 10,000 cfa (~$16), with coins for smaller amounts.

You’ll want to hold onto your small bills and coins like your life depends on it. Street vendors and taxis will almost always accept only small or exact change, and even larger stores/grocers will often have small change shortages. Break your 10,000 bills at larger stores when you can, and if you truly don’t have small change, stand your ground for a bit when someone tells you they don’t have change for the bill you offer. Often, they, like you, just want to hold onto their small bills whenever possible. 

Some ATMs do not accept foreign cards and will present various errors when you try to withdraw money. No need to panic or assume your card has been canceled – you probably just need to try a different ATM. Two which have been reliable for myself and others with foreign cards are BICICI and BridgeBank. Most bank branches have ATMs, which are usually staffed by security guards. The ATMs are often hidden behind doors, so asking the security guards for the “guichet automatic” when you approach is your best bet. Be aware that ATMs are frequently down or out of money, so try not to wait until the last minute to restock on cash. Despite my issues with American cards at ATMs, I’ve never had an issue with my American cards being accepted at grocery stores or other places which take cards.

Digital Money in Abidjan

Many Ivoirians use some form of a digital wallet, not unlike venmo or cashapp. The most common of these is OrangeMoney, a digital wallet run by the largest phone service provider in the country. An OrangeMoney wallet allows you to pay vendors which take OrangeMoney, to transfer money to other OrangeMoney accounts, and to buy phone credit/phone plans from its app, among other services. While OrangeMoney can be convenient, it’s important to note that a) you need an Ivoirian number to sign up, and b) you can only deposit money in your account via cash or local banks; there’s no direct card-to-account mechanism. 

To get started with OrangeMoney, head to your local Orange Agency with your passport (necessary to verify your account). Once it’s been set up, you can do most everyday transactions (transfers, adding money to your account, withdraws, etc.) either via the app or at one of the “Orange Boxes” which you’ll see frequently on the streets of Abidjan. If you’re just visiting for a few weeks, you probably don’t need an OrangeMoney account. However, if you’re moving to the Ivory Coast, it’s a helpful account to have.

Another popular digital wallet is Wave, which operates similarly to OrangeMoney, but no in-person passport verification is needed. Many stores, vendors, and even taxis will accept Wave. Like OrangeMoney, look for street kiosks displaying the Wave logo, where you can deposit and withdraw money.

Abidjan Affordability:

Overall, Abidjan is a shockingly expensive city. In general, the more local something is, the cheaper it will be. As you move toward the imported/foreign end of the spectrum, pricing increases significantly. Throughout this guide, I’ll give example pricing of various items so that you get a sense for how to build an Abidjan budget.

Ivorian SIM Cards/Phone Plans

To get phone service and data in Abidjan, you’ll likely want a local SIM card. Orange and MTN are the largest providers, with Orange being the most ubiquitous. To get an official SIM, head to one of their offices with your passport. You’ll be able to buy a sim card (less than $1), and load it with any combo of credits/plans/etc. I use Orange and specifically make use of their data-only plans. For ~$16/month I can get 15 GB of data, or 7.2 GB of data for ~$8. 

As far as I can tell, there are no contract/self-renewing plans. As such, every month I either use my Orange Money app to buy another monthly plan or head to one of the Orange Boxes on the street. One perk of Orange data is that any remaining data rolls over to the next month.

I ended up using a physical Orange SIM card in conjunction with a GoogleFi esim which allows me to keep my American number while abroad. If you’re also trying to figure out what to do with your phone for an international move, check out my complete post on keeping your US phone number while living internationally.

Transportation in Abidjan

Yango

Abidjan has many forms of transportation, but the one to master when you arrive is Yango, Côte d’Ivoire’s taxi app. Uber also exists in Abidjan, though it is not widely used among locals. Uber is worth checking if you’re having trouble with Yango, but for the most part, Yango is the way to go. Download the Yango app and hook up a credit card before you arrive to simplify your life upon arrival. Otherwise, the app works as you’d expect it to for the most part. 

Don’t expect your Yangos to be fancy. Often, seatbelts are nonexistent or broken, and doors may only open from the outside or from the inside. If you want air conditioning, you’ll want to upgrade to a “Comfort” ride. Like Uber, Yango pricing is dynamic. Prices will double or triple during rush hours, late at night, or during heavy rain. In general, a 20-minute ride usually costs around 3,000 cfa (~$5). If you pay with cash, have small change ready. Drivers sometimes insist they have no change, forcing you to overpay by several hundred cfa or more. Do note that tolls are not included in the Yango-stated price. The most common toll is the HKB bridge connecting Marcory and Cocody, which costs 500 cfa to cross. Either give the driver 500 cfa at the toll booth, or upon the completion of the ride. 

When you get in a Yango, the driver will usually expect you to give them an idea of where you’re going. Usually, the neighborhood name should suffice. If you’re new to the city and don’t know where you’re going, this can present a challenge. As such, it’s worth checking out where you’re going beforehand so you’re ready with a neighborhood name. Many Yango drivers aren’t big fans of map following, and Yango works on a different maps system than google maps. Putting this together, it’s often worth mapping your destination on Google Maps and following along as your Yango proceeds. I often need to remind my driver of a turn or ask them to take a different route. Usually they’re quite amenable, though sometimes they’ll know of road closures or traffic rules which don’t show up on maps.

Other Forms of Transit

You can easily hail an orange taxi cab in most areas of the city. The orange cabs are the city-wide cabs which can take you between neighborhoods. Most neighborhoods also have their own specific color of cars with set routes, prices, and boundaries – these are called wôrô-wôrôs. Orange cabs will honk at you if they’re driving past and empty, so it’s easy to flag one down. You’ll need to tell the driver where you want to go, and propose/negotiate a price upfront. A good starting point is a few hundred cfa below whatever Yango is quoting. Once you’ve agreed on a price, you’ll need to provide basic directions to your driver. Given the need to negotiate and be responsible for your route, I only use cabs over Yangos when I’m having trouble hailing a Yango or I know the route well and hailing a cab feels easier.

Yellow minivan driving on the streets of Abidjan
A colorfully painted gbaka

Beyond taxis and wôrô-wôrôs, you can also find traditional buses which traverse the city, as well as gbakas. Gbakas are small transit vans which pack passengers in tight quarters and travel along set routes. Within the city, I almost exclusively use Yangos/taxis, but to get out of Abidjan, busses and gbakas can be great. See more on those in the “Getting out of Abidjan” section.

Navigating Abidjan: Safety and French

Safety

Safety never fails to be in the top 5 questions that people ask when I say I live in Côte d’Ivoire. However, when people think of safety it’s often through the lens of physical safety (robberies, murders, etc.) rather than day-to-day ease of navigation. Luckily, Abidjan is a relatively safe city when it comes to physical safety. I navigate most of my day-to-day activities on my own and have almost never felt physically unsafe.

However as a solo white girl I do get more than my fair share of unwanted attention. This comes in the form of looks and remarks when out and about, which can be mentally draining and can turn everyday activities into high-energy activities. I’ve gotten better at dressing modestly and ignoring comments, and I’m now more comfortable with the attention. However, I’d be doing others a disservice if I didn’t acknowledge that Abidjan is a city which sometimes requires high energy output for me to navigate.

French

Simply put, French is a must if you’re moving to Côte d’Ivoire. I arrived with limited French (shout out to my two years of high school French). This presents a real challenge in Abidjan, but I’m doing my best to pick up what I need to navigate my day-to-day. Ivorian French is somewhat different from France French in both accent and some vocabulary. As such, prepare to be humbled initially even if you feel confident in your French. If you don’t speak French, you shouldn’t expect anyone you interact with to speak English. It will be up to you to whip out google translate and figure out the interaction.

Given that there is often limited digital infrastructure in the country, my elementary French has been a bigger hurdle than I anticipated in some ways. For example, many hotels, restaurants, and tour guides have limited internet presence. As such, you must call in order to get rates, availability, hours, and bookings. If you’re moving to the Ivory Coast for the long haul, learn French as quickly as you can. In the meantime, finding some Francophone friends who can help you fill the gap will make the country much more accessible.

Where to stay in Abidjan

Finding Lodging in Abidjan

Airbnb and hotels are your best bet when it comes to starter lodging in Abidjan. Many hotels do not have an internet presence, or at least do not have online booking, which can make it challenging to book from abroad. It is also very difficult to look for longer-term lodging in Abidjan from abroad. If you’re moving to Abidjan and looking for a longer-term lease, you’ll likely want to start with an Airbnb. Once you arrive, you can do your apartment hunting via “for rent” signs and facebook/whatsapp groups. Since Abidjan is a pretty massive city, here’s a basic neighborhood map and guide.

Abidjan Neighborhood Guide

A map of the city of Abidjan with text labels for the main neighborhoods. Understanding Abidjan's neighborhoods is crucial when moving to the Ivory Coast.
The neighborhoods of central Abidjan

Cocody, Zone 4, and Marcory are the most heavily populated with wealthier locals, foreigners and the occasional tourist. Koumassi and Treichville are primarily local but fairly accessible for travelers. Plateau is primarily a business/professional district. The remaining neighborhoods are significantly more local, with varying degrees of touristic accessibility depending on locale and personal comfort level. 

The main neighborhoods you’d likely be staying in are:

  • Cocody: A large, more spread out area which includes a golf course, many embassies, and plenty of foreign officials. While there are some extremely expensive neighborhoods/compounds in Cocody, there are also a lot of quieter areas which are cheaper than Zone 4 but still accessible to foreigners. A good base if you’re moving to Abidjan on a budget.
    • Cocody is further subdivided into a large number of neighborhoods. These include Ambassades, Blockauss, Riviera 1 (aka Riviera Golf), 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as Riviera Palmeraie and Deux Plateau (not to be confused with the business district of Plateau). These neighborhoods are key when discussing the locations of restaurants or stores, or when you’re directing a Yango or taxi.
  • Zone 4: A very dense, urban area with plenty of grocery stores, restaurants, and malls. In particular, Zone 4 is a popular spot for foreigners. Its density can make it an easy home base for folks new to Abidjan. Zone 4 is where I based myself, so check out my piece on what it’s like to take an evening walk through the Zone 4 neighborhood.
  • Plateau: The business/commercial center of Abidjan. This district is mostly big office buildings and fancy hotels, with very few people actually living here. It’s buzzing during the week and dead on the weekend. If you’re just coming for a few days for a conference or other meetings in Plateau it’s a fantastic place to stay so that you can beat the traffic. Otherwise, it might not be the best base.

Eating and Shopping in Abidjan

Local food abounds in Abidjan, and there’s plenty of international food if you’re willing to pay. Here’s what you need to know to get started on your Ivorian culinary adventure.

Dining Out: Local Ivorian Food

Local restaurants in Côte d’Ivoire are called “maquis”. Maquis are casual open-air spots which serve a fairly predictable set of dishes. Maquis tend to be affordable (a meal generally isn’t more than 5000 cfa), but don’t go in expecting a quick bite. I’ve often waited an hour or more for my meal after ordering at a maquis. You can expect to eat with your hands (or specifically, your right hand) at maquis. Before you eat, keep your eye out for a water bucket for you to wash your hands with. While there may be some variety on the menu depending on the maquis, you’ll almost always find the following local staples:

  • Attieke: A starchy side made from fermented cassava; tastes a bit like slightly sour couscous
  • Alloco: Chopped, seasoned, and fried ripe plantains
  • Riz: White rice
  • Poisson braisé: Whole roasted fish, usually served with piment (spicy pepper paste), a mixture of tomatoes and onions, and your choice of side starch
  • Poulet braisé: Roasted chicken, generally chopped up into bone-in chunks and served with piment, the tomato-onion mixture, and your choice of side starch
  • A variety of local beers, usually between 500-1000 cfa depending on the maquis
A whole roasted fish accompanied by fried plantains and various sides. Poisson braise is a food that you'll find everywhere when moving to the Ivory Coast.
Poisson braisé

Along with maquis, you’ll also find plenty of local street food if you stroll through the city, including but certainly not limited to:

  • Banane braisé: Whole roasted ripe plantain
  • Brochette: Grilled meat skewers
  • Pain brochette: Baguette filled with the meat from the aforementioned skewers – a quick sandwich!
  • Garba: A popular cheap lunch comprised of fried chunks of tuna on a base of attieke with plenty of chopped onions and tomato

Dining out in Abidjan: International Cuisine

The good news about Abidjan’s international food scene is that if there’s a cuisine you’re craving, there’s a good chance that a restaurant exists to fill that niche. The bad news is that the quality is anyone’s guess, and the pricing may be high enough to send you back to the maquis with your wallet stashed deep in your bag. Expect to pay upwards of $15 for an American-style burger, upwards of $20 for a wood-fired pizza, and upwards of $40 for a sushi dinner. 

The one shining exception to this quality/pricing rule is Lebanese food. Abidjan has a huge Lebanese population, and Lebanese restaurants abound. These include higher-end spots where you’ll easily spend $30 per person on dinner, as well as fast food-style spots where you can grab a falafel wrap for under $3. 

Ordering Takeout in Abidjan

If you need a lazy night in, never fear. Abidjan has an impressively robust network of food delivery options available via the Glovo and Yango Deli apps. Glovo is the more widely used of the two. It offers delivery from hundreds of restaurants, making it easy to order in when you don’t feel like venturing out. The delivery fee is rarely more than 1000 cfa ($1.60), and for a mere $2.50/month you can get free delivery on most orders.

Groceries in Abidjan

Supermarkets & Grocery Stores

If you’re trying to stay on a budget or just sticking around a bit longer in Abidjan, odds are you’ll want to cook for yourself. There are many grocery stores in Abidjan, under the brand names of Casino, Carrefour, Hayat, Auchan, and others. Most medium to large grocery stores will have most of what you need. This usually includes a bakery section, produce section, meat counter/fridge, dairy fridge, frozen section, dry goods, and some household goods as well. However, in my Abidjan experiences, it’s been rare that I find everything I’m looking for at one store. Selection doesn’t always scale with store size, and product availability seems to be a bit random. Also, don’t ignore small corner stores or superettes in your vicinity. Not only are they convenient, but they sometimes have cheaper prices than the big stores! 

Pricing will depend heavily on whether products are local and imported – the sticker shock for some imported products is real. On one of my first supermarket visits, I accidentally spent $8 on a cabbage because I didn’t realize I had picked up the imported version. You live and you learn.

Street Vendors in Abidjan

A typical outdoor fruit stand in Abidjan, with piles of local fruits and vegetables.
Typical fruit and veggie stand in Abidjan

When it comes to fresh produce, your best selection and quality will usually come from street vendors. You’ll find vendors of all scales as you wander neighborhoods. You’ll also find large collections of vendors at neighborhood markets (such as Grand Marché de Treichville, Grand Marché de Marcory,, etc.).

While you’ll need a bit of French and some small change to navigate street vendors, you’ll be rewarded with a much better selection of fruits and vegetables. Don’t miss the abundant papayas (Under $1 for a large papaya) and mangos (~$0.50 each) when in season. Aside from the typical vendors, keep an eye out for pineapple vendors who push carts full of pineapples and will peel and slice one for you upon purchase.

Grocery Delivery

Glovo does grocery delivery in addition to food delivery, and with low delivery costs, it can be incredibly convenient. Usually, it’s cheaper for me to get Glovo delivery than take a Yango to a supermarket. However, Glovo has a much more limited selection of items compared to what you’d find in store. In addition, quality/quantity restrictions on produce or other by-weight items sometimes makes online ordering challenging.

Shopping in Abidjan

As someone who was used to being able to find just about anything I need either at Target or on Amazon in the US, Abidjan shopping was an adjustment. There are no all-purpose superstores, and very little no online shopping. I’ve still found just about anything I need in Abidjan, though, so here are a few places to get you started:

  • General home & kitchen supplies: Orca, China Mall (cheaper but very chaotic)
  • Toiletries: Your local pharmacy (higher end products), large grocery stores (think drugstore products), instagram shops (imported makeup/skincare & high-end products)
  • Clothing: Shopping malls, including Cap Sud, Cap Nord, Prima Center, Abidjan Mall, Playce, and more. Look up “wax fabric” stores for gorgeous traditional fabrics and clothing made from them.
  • Souvenirs: Cava art market, local markets (I like Grand Marché de Treichville)
  • Online shopping with Jumia: Jumia is an app that is pretty much your only traditional “online shopping” option in Abidjan. It’s worth checking out if you’re trying to avoid running to multiple different stores to find something. However, be aware that in general you absolutely must be home when they attempt to deliver your order otherwise the order will likely get canceled, so this can get tricky.

What to do in Abidjan: Gems to Round Out an Itinerary

Abidjan is not a particularly touristic city. As such, it doesn’t have tons of traditional tourist attractions. If you ask most foreigners here what their favorite part of Abidjan is, they’ll likely reference something to do with getting out of the city or weekend trips (see the next section). However, there are still some gems of Abidjan to explore while you’re here!

Banco National Park

A young woman exploring a dilapidated building in a nature preserve
Exploring at Dahlia Fleur

Banco National park is the closest Ivoirian national park to central Abidjan. It is a sprawling tropical forest which you can hike through with a guide. You can easily get a Yango to and from the park (~45 minutes or so, depending on where you’re going from). Pricing-wise, you’ll have to pay both an entry fee as well as a guide fee. As of Fall 2023, for foreigners this was 5,000 cfa ($8) for entry and 10,000 cfa ($16) for a guide. The guides will walk you through a section of the park depending on your interests/how far you want to go. Although there isn’t much in terms of animals, the greenery is lush and serves as a stark contrast to the busy city of Abidjan. This is a good group activity, as you can all share one guide and keep the price lower.

Park Dahlia Fleur

Also about 45 minutes outside of the city, Park Dahlia Fleur is a smaller and slightly less expensive nature fix. The park has alluring bamboo walks and plenty of butterflies and other tropical insects to spot. However, guides are not required and the trail network can get a bit confusing – be sure to keep tabs on your surroundings. When you arrive you can opt to pay just an entry fee (3,000 cfa or $5) or entry plus lunch. We opted for just entry, but hung around to enjoy some fresh coconuts and bissap after our hike. It was a lovely way to round out the day – don’t miss it!

Grand Marché de Treichville

This massive but accessible local market is worth a visit in its own right even if you don’t have anything you’re specifically looking for. The streets around the market’s center are swarming with individual vendors selling shoes, clothes, food, and pretty much everything you could imagine. Inside the central market building, the ground floor is a sprawling yet organized food market, with sections for meats, fish, produce, and more. Upstairs, you’ll find sections of fabrics, tailors, jewlers, woodworkers, and beyond. While the market is clearly aimed at locals, I’ve been pleasantly surprised by how easy it is to navigate as a foreigner with limited French. The vendors are friendly without being overly pushy or aggressive, and I haven’t felt the need to take any safety precautions beyond my typical situational awareness of possessions in crowds.

Cava Artisan Market

Cava is a medium-sized outdoor craft market aimed almost exclusively at foreigners or tourists. This means that you’ll have a fantastic selection of crafts both for everyday use and gifts/souvenirs. However, it also means that you’ll face higher prices and pushier vendors. The wares are beautiful and it’s absolutely worth a visit even if you don’t have any purchases to make. If you are looking to buy, be ready to bargain hard. Most vendors typically start their pricing at 2-4x their lowest price.

Getting out of Abidjan: Weekend Trips

Abidjan can be a chaotic city, but luckily there are quite a few places you can escape to for a weekend. I’m working on weekend trip guides for each of the places I visit where I’ll walk through transportation, lodging, and the experience in more detail, but until then, here’s where I’ve been so far:

Grand Bassam

Grand Bassam is small beach town about an hour east of Abidjan, famous for its historical colonial buildings. Bassam is an easy escape and you can easily make it a day trip if you don’t want to spend the night. Unfortunately, the beaches are quite polluted and the ocean is often not suitable for swimming due to currents and beach structure. For the ultimate beach day, look for a beachside hotel with a day use pool or lounge chairs. If you don’t have a car, you can catch a ride to Bassam via gbaka (transit vans with ~15 people) from Treicheville for 500 cfa ($0.80). You can also take a Yango for about 10,000 cfa ($16).

Assinie

For a full guide to getting to, staying in, and enjoying Assinie, check out my post on planning a perfect Assinie beach weekend!

A coconut is being held up against a backdrop of the ocean with palm fronds in the foreground
A fresh coconut on the beach of Assinie

By far the most popular weekend getaway from Abidjan, Assinie is the more luxurious step-up from Grand Bassam. About 2 hours east of Abidjan, Assine has two main parts: a long strip of luxury hotels and beach clubs, and a small, much more humble and local town. The hotels are beautiful and offer access to significantly cleaner, swimmable beaches, but are also expensive, particularly on the weekends. You can reach Assinie via gbaka from Treicheville. However, make sure you’re catching one headed all the way to Assinie rather than Bassam.

Man

Read my complete guide to hiking the Dent de Man, including transportation, lodging, dining, and hiking logistics!

The hike to Dent de Man is lush and green, with a view of the rock formation you'll be summiting!
The formidable Dent de Man as seen from the trail

Man is a small town nestled in the western mountain region of Côte d’Ivoire. It is home to Côte d’Ivoire’s best-known day hike: the Dent de Man. Man is about an 8-hour drive from Abidjan (or a 1-hour flight), so it lends itself best to a long weekend (or longer!). If you’re looking for a break from the beachy vibe and want a change of scenery, Man delivers with its lush greenery, waterfalls, and of course, the Dent de Man hike!

Yamassoukro

A view of the columns of the Yamoussoukro basilica at golden hour
Yamoussoukro Basilica

Yamassoukro, or “Yakro”, is Côte d’Ivoire’s official capital, but it is much smaller than Abidjan. Yakro is 3-4 hours from Abidjan by car depending on traffic, and offers a gigantic and stunning basilica, a lake of imposing crocodiles, a vibrant fruit and veggie market, and a slower, quieter pace of life. Certainly worth a visit to get a window into the heart of Côte d’Ivoire. It is easiest and fastest to get to Yakro by car. However, you can also take a UTB bus from the Koumassi, Adjame, and Yopougon UTB stations (among others). It’ll cost you under $10, but you’ll need to budget significantly more time for your travels.

Grand-Lahou

This quiet town about 3 hours west of Abidjan is a perfect base for a weekend exploring. From Grand-Lahou, you can check out the nearby Azagny national park (don’t expect any animals, but enjoy the mangroves, lagoons, and savannah views) and the island stilt village of Tiagba. This weekend trip requires a bit more planning as both excursions require guides and you’ll need a car to get off the beaten path. This being said, I found it to be well worth it for deeper cultural exploration.


While I’ve tried to cover the most salient aspects of life in Abidan through this guide, I’m more than happy to chat if you’re planning a trip or moving to the Ivory Coast! Leave your questions in the comments below, and help me keep this guide a living document for all of the travelers to come.

Last updated February 2024

4 thoughts on “Moving to Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire (Ivory Coast): A Guide”

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